My time on the pc is limited and I want to bring everyone up to date so no pics today. We left Bilbao to Portugalete and a stay in a nice pension there, outside the town but near the Camino for the next days walk into Onton and Castro. Gale force winds out of Bilbao, nice days walk to Onton around the coast, I had been looking forward to this, but for my fellow Greystones residents the Bray Cliff walk is far better. For caminoists, the foot bridge on Playa de Arena was closed and no warning, my fellow walkers climbed over the bridge and barriers but I went back and around on the minor road bridge, so check this if you can. This meant i walked on my own for the day without meeting a single fellow pilgrim. That is strange as today we are a group again, not the 34 from Deba but about 10. We seem to be doing well on the kms front, and realise a lot of pilgrims are finding the conditions too tough. The alberque in Castro could be your favourite ? or your worst nightmare. 7 pilgrims were expelled, they went to watch the Portugal ? footie match and back at 11pm, were asked to remove their belongings and leave. There was no noise made as none of us in bed heard a thing, but the man is charge was very drunk and insulted a few young people and it was not good for the Camino. The group found a cheap pension and went out to celebrate their expulsion.!! Castro to Laredo and a wonderful walk and stay in a Convent there, le Trinidad. We walked a lot on the road as the warnings re mud and weather were now being heeded by everyone. Today however saw torrential rain but no muddy paths, we may have deliberately avoided them though. Everyone is tired. The boat today to Santona was short and unexpected ? pm me if you want to know. Now in Guemes, a wonderful place, but if you are not on the main Camino route you will spend hours looking for it (yes, yes, yes)!!. We wait now for our communal meal and head to Boo tomorrow. Feet are good, some peeling but no blisters. Sore ankle and legs but otherwise all well. We are all suffering from the cold, not enough clothes with us and everything getting wet through, yes we have goretex and covers and merino wool and layers but still. I am enjoying myself, no swim yet though. The suffering has already paid off in some ways and we have met some angels.
Got to go.
Well the weather outside is frightful and the Camino is delightful…
28 AprA little bit of information about the route
24 AprI hope that some pilgrims that are going to walk this Camino (Norte) will be interested in this. The path from Irun to San Sebastien is a good forest track, well signposted, with good coastal views. At one time you might think you are going the wrong way as the sea is on your left. The road down to the boat crossing is so steep both Carol and I walked down some of it backwards. The steps up from the boat are very steep, what goes down most go up! Then San Sebastien, what a promenade, gale force winds, hailstones all added to the atmosphere. We had to stay here in the Youth Hostel and there were a lot of very noisy kids there. However we ate in the local "jubilados" club, I had liver and onions and vegetable soup, wine, bread and water for ~6.50. (The only cheap food we have had so far). Next day Friday the Youth Hostels were full and we were all left high and dry!. We had to get a bus out to a private hostel, again we ate our bocadillos for dinner, but breakfast was good, with home made cake. The road from there (Zumaia/Santa Clara) was forest track for a while and then a very steep dangerous descent into Deba. We had not walked much but could not go on as there was no beds for another 25km. This is a difficulty on this Camino. We stayed at the Monastery after Markina, the path from there was practically impassable and all directions should have been to remain on the road. I intend to write to the CSJ on my return. Many people fell. There was no alternative but to wade through fields that had been flooded, the route beside a river may be dry at some stage during the year but I doubt it. One woman had to go to hospital with a broken rib. Our friend went home this morning as her sore knee could not react to pull herself out of the sucking! MUD. A japanese man boots fell apart from wet/mud and no place to dry clothes/boots etc. It has also been cold and Carol has a chest infection and my left leg is sore/tender (but ok). After 6 days we have had to adjust pre-prepared plans. The hostel at Morga outside Gernika was not answering the phone and again a group of us stayed at the local youth hostel, it was very good. Many found the day from Markina to Gernika so difficult that the walk into Bilbao seemed too much. A local tram came to the rescue today and we were able to walk a little, train a little and be tourists a little. Bilbao is very nice and many will stay here another night to see all the "culture". We continue on. Next post might let you know who we all are, an interesting lot.
Irun-Hendaye to San Sebastian and Bilbao
23 AprI wonder who thinks that a pilgrimage walk is a great way to get away from home and enjoy a few weeks walking in Spain. Well, I don´t blame you. But the only words I can think of to call this post and message is Muddy. Forest mud, river mud, sandy mud, wet mud, red mud, yellow mud, mud that sucks the very soul from your body and makes you wonder why you thought a Camino in April in Northern Spain is a good idea. I hope the pictures I attach give you an idea. I have not taken the pictures of todays boots yet as I can´t even see them. So it has been raining. We walked to San Sebastian and stayed in a Youth Hostel there. We took a high track through a muddy forest into Orio. The path was quite beautiful and the views over the sea were amazing. I thought I might get a swim but the waves on this coast are for surfers. In Deba we stayed in a little room beside the beach, the facilities were very basic, and the Walrus, the Carpenter and the little puppy were sleeping there too, all men who snored! I will have nick names for most of the peregrinos by the time I finish in Santiago. I walk with an Irish woman, a Spanish woman from Valencia and a young Portugese fire-man who is deeply religous. We four are now in Gernika in a room with a french couple in a very dear youth hostel. Today the guide book said take the road if possible as there might be mud but the yellow arrows kept leading us into the river, mud, forest and we couldn´t seem to stay on the road. It was very scenic and it was not raining this morning, but is now. Last night we slept in Ziorta Monastery, what a treat, a Japanese man was the only other person there, we were given a good supper of soup and bread, attended Vespers and got our first pilgrims blessing. We did get Mass in Deba on Saturday night. Mass in the Basque language is hard for the Spanish to understand, let alone the Portugese or Irish but we enjoyed the Misa as it was our first. Unlike the Camino Frances there is not the same opportunity to attend local mass at night as the alberques are on the outskirts of towns.
http://www.mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=37 —
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/del-norte/
If you want to read further on any of the stages check out these sites.
Applications invited for substitute tea maker…My Picasa Album for my photos
17 AprOne photo here of my gear before packing, was going to list it all, but that’s a bit boring..
Who is going to make the tea in my absence ? Only good blenders need apply.
1. Necessary criteria for applications. A kettle, electricity (or gas), a flask, running water, tea bags or leaves of some kind (only not Barry’s or Lyons, Pleeeaaase.) Rosehip, Cardadom, Ginger, Menthol and Eucalyptus are all popular. El P favours a fruity blend. As El P will be chairing with the boardies you need to take account of his taste most.
I will be ordering a Grande Cafe con Leche por favor …in Hendaye, San Sebastien and further afield…
Buenas Tardes y Mayo…
An Introductory article for Greystones Parish Website www.greystonesparish.ie
14 AprA personal pilgrimage
Are you interested in pilgrimage. Do you wonder could you do a long distance walk to an ancient pilgrimage site ?. There are many options available for the modern pilgrim. One of our parishioners considers herself to be very priviliged to have completed a Camino to Santiago in 2011 and received her Compestela. She now goes forth on her second Camino, this time taking an alternative route. Follow her pilgrimage on this page and follow her physical and spiritual journey.
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA-Northern Spain
This quietly enchanting ancient yet vibrant city of cobbled streets and stone arches is the destination of thousands of pilgrims, on foot and bicycle and horse-back every year… from every corner of the world. They come to travel the Camino de Santiago…they come in search of Spain, of adventure, of cultural enlightenment, of spiritual growth and most will return home with much, much more.
Its appeal is far reaching and its effect is deep and long lasting. The centuries-old pilgrimage to Compostela along the Road to Santiago can start in many different places, many start from their own front door.
In 2011 I started from St Jean Pied de Port and walked (with my husband) the 870km or so to Santiago de Compestela. On April 18th I take a flight to Biarritz and a train to Irun where I commence the Camino De Norte hoping to walk 870km along the Coastal Ruta and arrive in Santiago 35 days later. At the moment I am busy preparing. I have my back bag packed, well I know what is going into it. My mind is not so well prepared. I am 53 and fairly fit. I travel alone this time. Last year we saw many people in their 60’s and 70’s walking alone, collecting their Compestelas (certificate) and declaring the best part was the individual satisfaction of being on their own, a challenge to their body, spirit, mind and soul. So I prepare for my solo pilgrimage with hope, trepidation and many many prayers. I will stop at many sites along the way and think of everyone back home in Greystones, especially my familiy.
Check out http://www.stjamesirl.com for historical background and further information.
Check out my blog if you wish https://unascamino2011.wordpress.com/
Una's Caminos 